Homemade power rack
You know how valuable power racks are in the quest for muscle, and how expensive they can be. I ran across this homemade one in a forum and I had to share this with you. This is by far the BEST homemade power rack I've seen, along with very detailed plans on how to build it.
Instructions and photos by Aaron Gipperich.
Building vs. buying a power rack
Now that you've decided building a home gym is right for you, it's time to acquire some equipment. The power rack is the core of any bodybuilder's home gym, and unfortunately it's one of the most expensive components you will buy. Even a basic, no-frills power rack will cost over $400 when purchased new and shipping charges can be substantial if purchased online. Craigslist.com can turn up great deals on power racks, but depending on your location and patience level finding the right rack may be a painfully slow effort. If a new rack is out of your price range and playing the Craigslist waiting game is not for you then read on, as we'll show you how to build a quality wood power rack for under $150 using basic tools and simple construction techniques. Download the attached plans for a complete diagram of the power rack.
"Did he say 'wood' power rack? No way am I using wood!" Yes we've all seen pictures of some guy using a rickety power rack he built from spare 2x4s that's just an accident waiting to happen. However, wood has amazing compressive strength, and when built properly can handle extremely heavy weight. Built properly to utilize wood's compressive strength and treated with some care (not intentionally abused) the rack we're going to build should last for many years of heavy lifting. Wood also has some advantages over a steel rack, mainly being that this rack can easily be customized to fit your gym space. Low ceiling heights in basements or garages can be a challenge for some commercial power racks which are usually 82" or taller. Wood is also quieter than steel which can be an advantage for people like me.
I often work out late in the evening after my wife and 2-year old go to bed so the less metal I have clanking around in the basement the better. And the satisfaction of using a quality tool that you built yourself carries a level of pride into your workouts, plus it will impress you fellow lifting buddies. So with that on the table, let's move on to building this beast.
Tools required:
Only a few basic tools are required for construction. At the absolute minimum you will need a tape measure, hand saw, corded electric drill (not cordless), a standard drill bit set with screwdriver bits, standard ratchet and socket set, a 1 1/8" diameter spade bit (for cutting the holes in the vertical legs) and a level floor area at least 8'x8' to work in. You will need a powerful plug-in electric drill instead of a cordless unit for cutting the many holes that will need bored in the legs. This work will tear even a quality cordless drill to shreds as they are not meant for heavy cutting.
Other tools that will make this job easier include a HIGHLY recommended table saw for clean cuts (or a circular saw but the table saw is preferable), a cordless drill, attachment allowing the socket set to be used on the drill, various C-clamps and other grippers for clamping pieces together and a large table for a work space. A sheet of 4x8 plywood set up on a few saw horses or 5 gallon buckets makes a nice assembly bench and can save a lot of time being on your hands and knees.
Buying materials:
All of the lumber and other components for this rack can be found at your local Lowes, Home Depot or other good hardware and supply stores. The overall price of the rack will vary depending on your local prices but careful shopping should get you in the $120-140 range for everything. The lumber you select should be where you pay closest attention to what you're buying. Lumber comes in several grades and are priced accordingly. Of all the boards in this rack, the eight 2x6 members for the vertical legs are where you need spend the money and buy the better grades. Look for at least a "framing grade" of 2x6 and check each board for straightness and the fewest knots and other imperfections.
These boards are the core of the rack and will take the most abuse so be stingy and pick 8 of the best you can find. I happened to use a wolmanized board on my rack as that was the next grade above the cheap stuff. I wouldn't recommend wolmanized after my own experience but they certainly will work (more on that later) if available. The other members are not as critical and can be bought from the bargain stack but as always, the straighter the better. Be sure to buy one extra 2x4x96 for bracing the top of the rack to your ceiling structure (see end of article for this procedure). The board sizes and quantities you need are listed on the drawing diagrams at the bottom of this article.
The other items you need will include several pieces of 3/4" steel pluming pipe for spotter bars and a chinning bar. The cheapest way to buy the spotter pipe is to buy the full length 8 or 10 foot piece and have the store cut it in half for you (free at Lowes or Home Depot). Buy the pre-cut 5' piece for the chin bar. PLEASE NOTE the rack in the picture below is using 1/2" diameter pipe for the spotter rails. I'll be honest and admit I bought this size as it was a few bucks cheaper than 3/4" and is more than strong enough for the weight I can lift. Heavy lifters should go with the 3/4" size but be advised you hole cuts in the legs will need to be precise (straight drills) or you will have a tough time changing positions as the fit is snug.
The various plumbing fittings and washers you will need for the rack pins are also in the drawings below. An item that is not in the drawings but is recommended is a piece of steel 1" wide flat bar or light gauge angle to mount on the sides of the legs to keep the Olympic bar knurling from slowly filing away at the wood. This will only add about $6-8 to the overall price and you can add it later if cash is tight.
Several sizes and lengths of screws are needed for the project. The bulk of the screws for assembling the frame are 3" #14 wood screws which are just a heavy duty wood screw. Buy 3 of the 25 count boxes. The double legs are mated together with 2 1/2" drywall screws spaced 12" apart. If you're unsure of using drywalls screws you can go with a heavier duty wood screw but it's overkill in my opinion as the force pulling against these screws is minimal. Use 2 1/2" screws on the legs as 3" will poke through the back side of the legs. You will also need 4 lag screws 5/16" diameter by 2 1/2" long with washers for the base board.
Assembling the frame:
We're going to start with assembling the four vertical legs of the rack. The legs are going to take the majority of the construction time and once completed the remaining assembly goes quickly. First take the 8 premium 2x6 leg boards and cut them to 80 1/2". Depending on the height of your room, this length can be varied for a custom fit. The overall height of this rack will be 82" so add 1 1/2" to the length of the leg boards for the total height.
If you only have a hand or circular saw, the end you cut will be placed at the top of the rack. The pre-cut bottom ends will be square and will be screwed to the bottom supports (getting everything square on the bottom is critical). After cutting the boards to length double them up and screw them together with the drywall screws according to the screw pattern. The c-clamps or quick grips are handy for clamping the boards when screwing together. IMPORTANT NOTE: be sure to drill pilot holes in all screw locations to prevent splitting the boards. Do this for EVERY screw in the rack.
Once you have the 4 leg members screwed together we need to layout the spotter hole pattern on each leg. Draw a center line down each leg on the long side and mark hole locations according to the plan. Your needs may not require as many holes as I placed on my rack so the total number is your judgment call. I do like having the very top holes for moving the spotter pins out of the way when not used and the bottom set is handy for racking the bar when doing dead lifts and rows. The holes are placed at 4 1/2" on center and this is the minimum you should go for strength reasons.
The way I drilled the holes in the boards was by placing the legs on some 2x4 blocks to elevate it several inches above the floor. I drilled 1/4" pilot holes in each location first. Then switching to the 1 1/8" spade bit I drilled the hole half way through the board. I then flipped the board over and drilled through the rest of the hole. This method prevented the wood from splitting or splintering when the spade bit cut all the way through.
If you drill all the way through from one side you will likely split your board on the backside. The spade bit is chucking a lot of wood and by the time you are finished with all four legs your wrists will let you know it! Remember how I said I would not recommend wolmanized earlier? The reason for this is because this wood is very wet from the water proofing treatment applied. Being this wet did not make for very clean cuts and the holes are a bit "choppy" on the inside. The boards will dry out after several weeks but I didn't want to wait this long before building the rack, lesson learned.
Once the four legs are done the rest is easy! Cut the remaining boards to the lengths as specified in the plans (remember to cut the holes for the chin bar, same way as the holes in the legs). From here you're going to assemble the right and left sides of the rack separately. By building the rack in "sides" it will allow you to easily transport the rack to your home gym and do the easy final assembly there.
Referencing the plan, start with screwing the two bottom boards of each side together to form an "L" shape (boards D and G). You'll use your 4 foot 2x8 and 2x6 members here. Making the base first is the easiest way to attach the legs to these members. The bottom side of the 2x8 will rest on the floor with the 2x6 acting as the base plate for the vertical legs. Pay careful attention when assembling the base as it's easy to screw the wrong board ends together.
If you're unsure lay the entire frame out on the floor or table as it will go together before assembling anything. Here is where the plywood bench can help you easily square the frame up by using the table edges. If you're using the floor do your best to get everything square by eye-balling and doing measurements - measure twice before drilling pilot holes!
The top board of each side will be the last piece to screw into the top of the legs (board A). When adding the 45 degree leg braces it's easiest to stand up the rack side. It should stand on its own if the floor is level. I would highly suggest cutting the 45 degree braces with a table saw for clean and square joints. The bottom braces are the last step for this side of the rack; build the opposite side using the same methods.
After you construct the left and right sides of the rack there are three boards remaining (boards B, E and H). These three boards are what will tie the two sides of the rack together to complete the assembly. The length of these boards can be altered allowing for a custom width to your rack. I would advise measuring your barbell to be sure it will fit in the rack as it's shown. The outside dimension of the legs for this rack is 51 1/2" which should fit a 7' barbell but you should verify your bar length.
When doing the final assembly, place the rack where you want it to sit and measure the rack corners to ensure everything is square. Once everything is aligned I would suggest starting with the bottom board. It ties each side together with heavy lag bolts and washers for extra stability. You can use the ratchet set for this but an adapter to use the drill is very handy for these screws. The two top bracing boards screw in using the typical 3" wood screws.
Now is a good time to add the steel flat bar or angle guards to the leg sides if you so choose. For my rack I bought a 4 foot piece of 1"x1" metal angle stock and cut it in half. Attaching to the frame can be done with several methods (screws, glue, Velcro, etc.) I chose Velcro making it easy to move the guard to various locations on the rack if needed.
The last step should be deciding on how to add extra ceiling bracing to the top of your rack. As it stands now it's a very sturdy piece of equipment but being wood the less movement you have the longer it will stay a tight and rigid frame. Bracing the top will greatly reduce any rocking during use especially when doing chins. The absolute best method is to brace the top directly to your ceiling or floor structure above. If you're in a basement with exposed floor joists this can be done very easily.
For my rack, the overall height is 2" below my floor joists so I used a spare 2x2 that I screwed to the bottom of the joists then connected the left and right sides of the rack to it with several metal "L" brackets and wood screws. My rack has no movement at all thanks to this. Higher ceilings can use 2x4 attached to the top boards and running at a 45 degree angle up to the ceiling.
There is no right or wrong way for this as long as you can add something to reduce movement of the top of the rack. If for some reason you absolutely cannot connect the rack to your ceiling then the plan shows adding two 45 degree kicker boards at the top of the frame. This will significantly strengthen the top but not as well as true ceiling bracing.
You're ready for action!
Job well done! Your rack is complete and is ready to do some serious lifting. I hope this tutorial was a helpful guide for making your new power rack. Now the money you saved can go towards some extra plates and protein powder for your next workout.
Plans:
(opens with pdf reader)
NOTE: This rack was designed to be used with a standard weight bar. If you have an olympic bar, you need to move the sides of the rack in 2.5". This will allow the collars on the olympic bar to clear the sides of the rack and sit freely on the pipe fittings. Boards "B, H and E" (reference the power rack plan PDF) need to be cut approximately 2.5" shorter. Measure your olympic bar to verify this measurement before cutting these boards.
Pair this homemade power rack with this homemade weight lifting bench.
Very well designed and thought-out, with very detailed, easy to follow plans. I know some lifters were concerned with the hollow 3/4" diameter plumbing pipe being used for the saber spotter pins, especially if you drop a heavily weighted bar on them. Most likely they'll just bend, stopping the weight anyway.
If you are overly concerned about this, you can replace the 3/4" diameter plumbing pipe with thick walled hydraulic pipe, adding some rigidity to the pins. Of course this will add some more $ to the cost of the rack.
Readers Pics: Show us your homemade power rack.
Barry, I just finished the rack. Here are a few pictures. I made a few modifications. I used plywood to support the uprights, used 2x8s for the top, and used black pipe for a chin-up bar and to hold the front together. My son loves it. Shawn
Check out this homemade power rack/lifting platform by a reader of the site "Big Daddy". The red paint fooled me, I though it was steel at first! Damn nice job.
Homemade-power rack and lat tower.